Trying out Cargo Trikes

A few weeks ago we posted a pic of a little ride around the block with some small friends. Bike buddies Danielle and Roxy from Born in Japan spotted our newest arrival — a result of bike love gone mad that is now in our garage.

The three trikes we compared all together - the turquoise Haley
Model 1, the white Christiania, and the Triple Lindy. The only one
that's not ideal for carrying kids is the one with the kid in it...

We found an ad on the Chainlink forum, a nearly-never used Haley model 1 tricycle for a tiny price. We made a pact to ignore it for a few days but then when we looked back it was still there. Here in Chicago it’s good to recognize an offer you can’t refuse, so we rushed to the guy’s house, tried it, and the kids rode in it, actually rode it, shouted a lot, and wouldn’t get out of it. When we woke up dazed we were home and it was in the garage with the children refusing to get out of it.

For other posts on these and other cargo trikes look at Family Ride (reviews JC Lind), Totcycle (Christiania and Nihola) and  Let's Go Ride A Bike (Winther), not to mention Dr Mekon, (Christiania and Bakfiets trikes), BikePortland (Haley) and others linked from these. 

Then we started riding it in the neighborhood, but it wasn’t fun (for us — the kids loved it) since it had never been set up and some components needed work. On the Critical Lass ride the pedal fell off and Dottie had to carry me on her handlebars to the bar. Well, almost. Now that all is taken care of, it’s much better, but it had us wondering for awhile what the appeal of trikes was for grown-ups. 

Then last week we took some highly refined European cargo trikes, the JC Lind Triple Lindy and the Christiania BoxCycles trike, for a test ride to compare. To cut to the chase, the more expensive trikes are in a different class. They have a lot of features that make them more durable and comfortable, more stable and easier to ride, and unlike the Haley they work well with kids. You get a lot for the extra money.

Getting Ready to Bike to School on the Guardian Bike Blog

The Guardian Bike blog has a nice little piece today on cycling to school. Though it is from England it has great suggestions for anyone. Check it out here. Our own post on Growing School Bike Trains and the Portland site about their network share information and inspiration too.
Our family had a wobbly bike-to-school start this week. (Our school began last week.)  Organizing to have all three kids in school for the first time I struggled with getting organized and out the door every morning.

To the Ginza Holiday at the Midwest Buddhist Temple

Click to see it larger, or find
the info at the link above

Each year our family makes our way to the annual Ginza Holiday at the Midwest Buddhist Temple in Old Town. The festival ran this weekend Friday through Sunday at 435 W. Menomonee St. Cash only in years past, but they took credit cards for most things this time. There is a discount entry coupon at the link above. Maybe you missed it this year, but you can go next time!

As you may know there is a very large and vibrant Japanese American community here in Chicago. Many Japanese Americans were uprooted from their homes in other places after being imprisioned during the second world war and came here to make a new start with friends or family that had already returned. The peace and joy of the first Ginza Holiday, held 56 years ago in Old Town to great success despite fear of rejection from the white community, echos on through this celebration every year. A bike is the best way to get to this wonderful time!  Please try it if you've never gone. Your kids will love it. Check out the link to see all the neat things going on.

A bad, bad inner tube gets what's coming to it

fixed, a bit later in the day

Tried to take 2 kids out with me on the old Schwinn tandem and pulled it out of the garage only to find that the front wheel, which had been fine the day before, was utterly flat. Great!, I thought. A maintenance task for the LGRAB games! Out came the old metal tire irons and patch stuff. Off came the front wheel.

Tire coming off

Rrrgh. The hole wasn't in the tube itself. It was in the rubber surrounding the valve stem. Rubbing on the steel of the rim for years had done it in. Even with a patch over it nothing would hold it closed. Any patch just blew off with no tire behind it holding it in place. Tried it a couple of times, even.

Sssssssssss.

Eventually gave up and put in a new tube. The old one, it turned out, had been the wrong size and was folded over itself inside. A neat trick if you don't have access to one that really fits, but not ideal.

Finally got it redone, headed off and had a nice afternoon, with the big kid actually pedaling along!

     To do this yourself, get your patching tools together, with a tire patch kit, tire irons (plastic ones are nicest to your fancy aluminum rims), a wrench or other tool to take the bike apart and put it together (often 15mm on newer bikes), a new tube to fit your wheel that has the type of valve you use (Presta is skinny and Schrader is like the ones on a car) and a pump or compressor. A new tube is fast but if you can fix the old one it will be just fine and it's a lot cheaper. The whole process takes only a few minutes. Need a new tire? Now's a good time to change it. If your bike is Dutch, internal geared, or otherwise very difficult to take apart, and you can fix the old tube well, you can do the rest of this stuff without removing the wheel and without a new tube.

     Notice where the washers and nuts all go on your wheel compared to the fork ends, and unhook any safety thingies. This bike has screw on wheels, but if you have quick release levers you'll probably notice they're not that quick, really, since you probably have to undo the lever, then unscrew one side or the other, for the nuts to fit over the "lawyer lips" you likely have on your fork, or unhook any little tabs from the slots in the fork. The brakes should fit over the flat tire as you pull it out, or you can loosen them if needed. If you have a classic Raleigh you have a special case, and you need to put the wheel back exactly right. Mark the right side and the left side of the wheel, or, better, read this first. Some tires have to go in a certain direction - check yours.
     Take the wheel off the bike, then use the tire irons to gently lever one side's tire bead (inside the metal of the rim) up and over the rim toward the outside. Continue along, levering more and more off until the entire side of the tire is off the rim, leaving the other half still attached, and pull out the flabby flat inner tube. At this point you can fix the tube, usually, following the instructions that come with your patch kit. Pump it up, find the hole, use the kit.
     Check for bad things inside the tire or rim. If you find a piece of something sharp or a rough spoke end sticking through the rim tape or rubber rim band, you can remove it now or smooth it and cover it with new rim tape or a tire patch or thick duct tape. If there is a hole in the tire itself, it has to be pretty big to cause any problem. If you need to you can use a tube patch on the tire, or a stiff piece of paper like a new dollar bill can cover a big weak place until you get a new tire.
     Insert the new tube, slightly inflated, into the tire. You put the stem through the hole first, which should traditionally be near the brand marking on the tire, then stuff the rest of the tube into the tire. Even it out without too much twisting or pinching.
     Write in your contact information and put it in on a piece of Tyvek from a FedEx pack or similar including your name, telephone number and instructions to call you if the bike is taken for service (theft protection), write it on the rim tape, or Sharpie marker it onto the inside of the rim or tire. Rough notes can eat into the tube so make yours small and smooooooth.
     Reinstall the tire. Start near the stem and go around both ways to click it in. Often with mountain bike tires you can do this by hand, but these old Schwinn Westwinds needed a little oomph from a tire iron. Be careful not to pinch the tube (jab it in before levering the tire bead) or you'll be popping holes in tubes and doing this again and again.
     Put the wheel back with the tire mostly flat so it fits in between the brakes (assuming you didn't unclick the quick release on them - the old Schwinn doesn't have any kind of quick release). Attach the various lawyer safety things and washers just the way they were and screw everything in properly (or use the quick release. Put it in the loose way then move the lever to tighten. Too tight? Loosen the screw a bit and try again. Make the lever point back so hooking it on a bush won't drop out your wheel.)
     A back wheel is similar but more complicated to remove and replace. Make sure a back wheel is even so it doesn't drag on things before you tighten it down.

Did you enter the LGRAB games?

Bike luau

What fits better with bikes than a luau? Our niece couldn't think of anything else, either, so she had a luau bike party with bikes, grass skirts, authentic-ish Hawaiian pizza (the park wouldn't let us dig a hole for a pig roast), and pineapple juice and coconut drink (ahem). It was fun for everyone. And nothing says summer and bikes as well as tropical fruit (and frog catching in the park's nearby pond...)

The bikes were fun to decorate and who can resist a grass skirt?

The cool surfer-on-a-bike look

Even the bikes were wearing grass skirts (don't do this - it took
forever to peel the grass out of the sprockets so the thing would
shift properly again)

er, Aloha!

Another Little Postcard from NYC

Well, we had another chance last week to ride around New York. A post we did earlier described some of the bike lanes they've been installing there in the last few years, concentrating on Brooklyn, and this time we had almost a full afternoon to ride up and down between Soho and into Central Park.

No more big key chain for you - create a single key family bike lock system

Viro Blocca Catena large - my favorite bike lock

This will be the most fun you'll ever have locking your bicycles!

If you have a bunch of people in your family riding bikes, as we do, you have probably had a time or two where somebody's bike key has gone missing and you've been stuck, unable to unlock a bike you wanted to use or to lock a bike when you're out (usually with a kid needing the bathroom). This can be even more complicated with lots of bikes in a family who rides together. If that hasn't happened to you yet, you are better organized than we are. We found out how to minimize the problem, though!

This one key will open all of these locks.
I don't need a big key ring to manage the
bikes and neither does my spouse.
Abus 34CS/55 and two 34/55 models.

Having a single key system for all your bike locks takes the hassle out of locking up. It's great for family cycling and it's easy to arrange. If you have a bunch of bikes to lock up, it's easier not to have to search your pockets for the right key for each lock while the kids distract your attention. You can get everything unlocked or locked in much less time. It's especially handy if you lock a bike where your kids are at school or daycare that your partner needs to pick up later. Everyone has the same single key on their chain. You can grow the system from before your first baby to herding 4 kids around as your needs change.

This is good for kids too. Kids love to take responsibility by carrying their own locks and keys, yet parents can still open the locks if needed. There is no need to sacrifice security to do it either. If you want, you can also put together a lock system that is keyed so that all the grownups can open every lock, while the kids can open only their own locks. Then if the kid loses a key your grownup bike is still secure. Options for your family key system follow in a minute. First, you should choose the general type of lock you plan to use.

Kinds of Locks

U-Locks (also called D-Locks) - a solid steel U that hooks into a thicker bar
These are strong, pretty lightweight and small for what they offer but I prefer a chain and padlock. There are lots of different levels of quality. A small sized well-known-branded lock with thick steel parts and a locking connection on both sides of the shackle is safest but expensive. Cheap ones are cheap steel and don't protect well.

By 'a locking connection on both sides of the shackle', I mean U-locks with a little bite out of the metal on both sides of the U (instead of one side with a bite and one with a bent end or hinge or something). They are locked by a steel ball on BOTH sides of the main lock body, and they are MUCH better. It takes one cut to break a U-lock that only locks on one side, but may take TWO cuts to open one that locks twice. Twice the protection!

I am not aware of any rekeyable U-locks. But if you like U-locks, there is one way to get them keyed conveniently. Contact the manufacturer, either directly or via a locksmith or dealer, and order new locks you want all keyed alike. Sometimes they'll key new ones the same as one you already have. We did this once and Kryptonite didn't even charge extra to do it. It takes a few weeks for them to ship your order. Then all the keys fit all the locks. This is kind of expensive since good U-locks are not cheap, and kind of inconvenient since many of the things a U-lock will fit around are easy to remove (street signs and 'sucker poles', for example), but it's simple since you only need one key for everything and all the locks work the same. The same special order method applies for any non-rekeyable padlocks including Abus folding bar locks and chains with integrated padlock ends.

4/13: Someone recently noted in the comments that not all manufacturers can key new locks to your old one anymore. You have to buy all new ones. Too bad - try asking anyway and maybe they'll do it again.

Folding Bar Locks
These fold up like an old fashioned carpenter's ruler with a lock on it. Abus makes a lot of them. Word has it that the best ones are good, but the cheaper ones can be opened fast. They can be special ordered alike I think from the manufacturer.

Padlocks and Chains
With a padlock and chain you have a lot more freedom to change things or lock anywhere. A chain fits around large and unwieldy objects and allows you to lock your bike a small distance away from an object. Generally speaking, you want at least a meter of chain ($25-$100) and a heavy duty padlock ($15-80). This is heavier than a U-lock but more versatile.

A chain that's locked with a good padlock needs TWO cuts to get through it. Look for a padlock that also does, like the ones recommended below, with a sliding shackle or with a locking point on both sides. Try to maximize the number of difficult cuts through steel that a thief would need to make to get your bike.

our favorite locks are usually found on Italian mopeds

It's good to get a padlock that's at least as hard to open as your chain itself. A (10mm +) thick, special alloy shackle is a good idea, as is a shrouded shackle (like the biggest silver Abus 34CS/55 in the picture at the top - same lock as the others but with a shroud) or monoblock design (like the Viro locks pictured here). If a thief can't reach the shackle with a saw or other tool, the lock is safe. Lock picking is uncommon, takes time and anything of good quality is probably fine in this regard. (More pins, mushroom pins, or anti-bump pins = better anti-picking protection.) I recommend getting a rekeyable or KnK lock (see below) so you can rig up your family key system. Here are links to a Dutch cycle club site and a German test magazine that tested locks for strength.

The chain should be as thick as you can stand to carry, 10 mm or so, and in a city it must be very strong hardened steel like the Abus, OnGuard, Pewag and Kryptonite chains in the pictures. They won't cut with a normal chain cutter or hacksaw. Some people say you can get away with 8mm chain but we don't. 6mm isn't enough.
Chain length: The standard 3 foot (ca. 94 cm) chain will just barely fit around most of the big streetlight poles in downtown Chicago with room for your frame, but you would be happier with 4 to 6 feet of chain. This gives you a chance to use one lock on your bike plus a couple of kids' bikes or your partner's bike too. A short chain will fit on a sidewalk bike loop or rack easily though. Some chains have a ring on one end that seems handy; you can also loop it around a streetlight pole and use a U-lock to connect it to your bike.

A thick chain from the hardware store will work in low security settings - the red one in the picture down below is one of our kid's locks with normal chain in a tube of climbing tape (about $1 a foot at any rock climbing supplier) - but don't follow our example. It can be cut in no time with hand tools. The advantage is that it's cheap enough to use on a toddler bike.

Ready Made Chains
One easily found model we like pretty well is the Abus 10 KS chain, 110cm, with a 34/55 padlock, (34/55/10KS110) last seen by us for about $80 altogether (marked down from $125) at  a local bike store in Chicago in 4/13. It can also be supplied with a shrouded padlock, the 34CS/55 in the top picture, and both can be rekeyed by most locksmiths. The 110 cm chain is long enough to lock to a streetlight pole and a little longer than the similar Kryptonite chains. 
We have had good luck with the 10mm Kryptonite chain that came with a small Kryptonite Evo padlock but the lock itself froze up eventually and had to be cut off by the locksmith, so now we use the chain with a Viro lock. If you get one keep it oiled. They make bigger chains too though they get to be too bulky for us.
OnGuard also makes good 10-12mm chains. The plasticky parts fall off the padlocks but they are supposed to be secure. 
If you can't find these options in a bike or lock store look in a motorcycle or scooter shop.

Chains with integrated padlocks
These can be quite good - they are usually made of a 6 to 10 mm chain about a meter long with a big blocky plastic shrouded lock permanently attached to one end of the chain and a shackle-like rod on the other end. With a 10mm chain they should be fine, and some have won certification from ART or SoldSecure, but they can't be rekeyed as far as I know so you'd have to order them all keyed alike like the U-locks above.  I'm not sure exactly what the advantage is of having everything attached, and they are, if anything, bulkier than the chain-and-padlock version of the same idea.

Other Locks we don't like
We don't recommend any of these as a first line of protection. Spend the extra money on getting a better or longer chain and a better padlock or U-lock (or both!) instead.

Cables of any kind can be cut with very simple cheap tools. Don't waste your money. Thick, thin, armored: doesn't matter, easy to open. (remember this if nothing else!)

Café locks or wheel locks, those rings that click around the wheel while you just run in to the cafe, are pre-installed on many European style bikes. Axa and Abus make a lot of them and many older models can be opened very simply due to design errors. I think they are only useful to keep the wheel attached while the metal recycling guy picks up your whole bike and throws it in his truck to go sell to the Prolerizer. Maybe manufacturers can special order them keyed alike. Some may be useful to lock the wheel to your (well-secured by another lock) frame - look for the Sold Secure or ART certification for good ones - but I'd still rather have a better chain or U-lock for the extra money.

Special locking skewers, seat chains, etc, have serious drawbacks and even the good ones can be opened simply. Get plain hex bolt fasteners for hubs and seatposts to replace the quick releases but that's enough. If your seat or wheel is so nifty that someone will steal it, remove it every time and lock it with the chain, or change it and the seatpost out for a cheap set, or be willing to replace it. A cable or a bike chain through the seat can be cut easily, so they work only to prevent drunken vandalism, not real thieves.

How To Set Up Your Family Key System

Most padlocks, U-Locks, or similar non-rekeyable locks
You can get several copies of any nonrekeyable padlock keyed alike from the manufacturer for a basic but not very versatile single key system. This is hard to alter as your family changes but everyone has the same one key and it may be all you need. 

Rekeyable Padlocks
These have huge advantages over non-rekeyable systems, especially as your needs change, or if you lose a key that someone might use to take your bike. They can be set up and changed locally at any locksmith. And you can use them to make a custom key system. For example, a lock shop can key them all alike (easy and cheap) or set all the locks to open for, say, the grownups' keys while each kid's key only opens his or her own lock. That would be a variation of a master key system like those used in buildings or institutions and costs in our experience between $15 and $20 per lock if you have someone do it for you.  For one cheap alternative to this fancy master keying, costing maybe $5 per lock, you could use a full 6 pin cylinder in your grownup locks and only fill 5 pins in the kid's lock, giving the kid a shorter key that has only the first 5 pin spaces. The extra parts of the grownup key just spin in the empty space in the kid's lock, but the grownup key opens everything; the kid's key only opens the kid lock. The kid lock then has somewhat less security against picking than the grownup lock but most house keys have only 5 pins so it's not that bad.

Ask them to use the special high security pins when they rekey your lock if possible to limit picking. The cost difference is slight if any. 

With standard rekeyable padlocks you are pretty much limited to the single keyway (keyhole shape) that that padlock company uses - American, or Master, or Abus, or whatever. They can be versatile, secure and comparatively inexpensive but can't match your door key and might not let you change things as much in the future.

An even more flexible route is to use KnK (Key in Knob) padlocks.  You can match your bike locks to the door to your garage or basement with these, so one key opens the door, unlocks the bike, and fits easily in your pocket when you go out.

KnK lock cylinders - the thing your key fits into in a door handle - are usually used in buildings, but some special padlocks can use them. I listed some below. Prices vary, but start at about $10 for a common house key shape like a Schlage C or Yale, on up to maybe $65 for a really odd high security cylinder with restricted duplication.  You can have a bunch of different models that all use the same key, too. This is probably something to talk about with a locksmith. If you have the cylinders you can get a rekeying set cheaply at Menard's or other hardware stores for a few key types including Schlage C and Kwikset and rekey it yourself. No special antipick pins in this set. KnK padlocks are usually going to be from a good lock shop; some models are listed below.

A lock with a key in knob (KnK)
cylinder like a regular house door lock

this is a small KnK padlock for medium low security

Suppliers and Brands:

• Your Local Locksmith
  A good choice for the fiddly work of rekeying everything alike, but not usually a good place to find a chain. Maybe they can order you one. Local locksmiths will be able to make all kinds of things work together if you tell them what you want.
• Bikeregistry.com
  This internet site from Texas sells - or used to sell - great PEWAG brand chain and good Abus locks at an incredibly affordable price. They had bulk chain for $7 a foot, a complete chain and lock was about $38. Try the link, maybe they have it again.
  
• http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/category/SPCH.html sells bulk chain and locks, haven't tried them myself but look OK.
• Irv's Bikes in Pilsen always has a bigger than usual variety of Abus, Kryptonite and Onguard chains and U-locks. Many are rekeyable, especially the Abus, and they often have low prices.
  
• Your Local Bike Shop
  They will sell the usual U-lock and Kryptonite or OnGuard chain options. Go see what they have. Stay away from the cables. If you like folding ABUS bars this is the place to get them, though they are not rekeyable and the cheaper ones open easily. Nothing in a bike shop will be keyed alike, but maybe you can order it through them that way. Compare prices well.

Padlocks that seem pretty good (not a complete list)

Look for the UK's Sold Secure gold or silver or Holland's ART **** ratings on bike-related lock packages or look at their websites for independent evaluation lists of many locks. Some of the following locks aren't tested since they aren't sold specifically for bikes but your locksmith will probably know. Bike locks come with extra insurance sometimes but you pay for it in the high initial cost.

If I had to choose one new lock for all my family's bikes, I'd choose the Viro Blocca Catena, all keyed alike, since it's not as heavy as the other options, if I could find it. It's simple and not rekeyable but its design compensates for that for me. For a more complicated key system I'd go for the Abus 83CS/55 (or the American A748) and maybe use my house key in the plan.

• Shrouded locks like the American A6360 or A748 seem to be good nontraditional bike padlocks and they are easily available in locksmiths shops. Others include ABUS 34CS/55 (often sold with chain as here) which is in the top picture, and Master 7045KA. None of these are KnK but all are rekeyable.
  

• 

  good locks but this is low security
  chain for a toddler bike

  KnK: Abus 83CS/55 has a steel body, is shrouded, and takes KnK cylinders. The 83/55, 83/60 and 83/80 are big steel KnK locks without a shroud. Abus makes some monoblock designs that are a good alternative. Here's a link to the ABUS page. There is a Schlage/Kryptonite KnK lock, the KS72 pictured above, that looks like the ones on truck trailers - it's kind of heavy but works OK and it's cheaper than the others. There are some small Abus 83/45s on junk chain and the KS72, all keyed alike, in the picture here.
• VIRO was an Italian company, now part of Assa/Abloy, that makes the locks the City of Chicago uses to boot cars. One excellent but not rekeyable model for bikes is the Monolith, a cheaper alternative is the Panzer.  The large Blocca Catena is on nearly every moped in Italy and it's not easy to break. I don't know who the Chicago locksmith dealer is; I got mine pictured earlier very inexpensively from a hardware store in closeout. Order them special to get them keyed alike since they aren't rekeyable.
  
• Fancier Expensive Padlocks
  I don't think it is worth the money to get a restricted unpickable keyway on a bike lock but if your needs are different (to make it match your house, for example) you could try Mul-T-Lock or Medeco. There are a few locksmiths in Chicago with these including the Security Shop, with whom I've always had good luck.

Lock Terminology 101

• SHACKLE - the bent U-shaped thing on a padlock or U-lock that holds what you're locking
• CYLINDER - the round thing that you put your key into and that can spin if the key fits
• PINS - the metal rods inside the lock that keep the cylinder from spinning unless the key fits. There are usually 5 or 6 of them in most locks.
• KEYWAY - how the zigzag slot in the cylinder is shaped. You can't stick a key with the wrong keyway into a lock at all.
• SHROUDED padlocks have a steel thing all around the sides of the shackle so it's hard to get cutting tools close to anything important.
• MONOBLOCK or SLIDING BOLT padlocks have a straight bar for a shackle that pulls in and out of the lock body, which itself is shaped like a squarish U. The ends of the chain fit in the U and then the bar goes through the links and clicks closed, which keeps the business end of the lock hard to reach with cutting tools. This is what they usually use on car wheel boots.

Bike Locking, in General (stuff you already know)

No bike lock is perfectly safe, no matter what. But if your bike is locked better than the one next to yours, maybe it's safe enough. Good U-locks, high security chain and padlock combinations, and folding bar locks are usually enough. Cables, combination locks, weak chains, padlocks or U-locks aren't worth the price. When in doubt, ask a lock shop. Here's a Slate Magazine review that's not too old. 

Get insurance if you really can't afford having your bike stolen. 

The most important thing to think about when locking your bike might not be how super impenetrable your awesome locks are, but rather how well you are connecting everything together. Be SURE that your lock goes around a major part of the bike frame and can't be removed, like one or two of the main tubes, and through the (preferably back) wheel too. (A back wheel costs a lot more to replace than a front one.)

Be extra careful about locking through the front wheel - people always do this and miss the frame. Often a thief could disassemble the headset or wheel and take the rest of the bike easily. The stem is also a bad place since the handlebars can be taken off. 

Also, ALWAYS keep the bike LOCKED TO something that's hard to cut, not just to itself, even if it's inside your garage or stairwell. You can get an "anchor" at the locksmith to facilitate this if you need it. Note that many poles on sidewalks can be unbolted and removed, so find a better place. And try to avoid leaving your bike out somewhere for very long (especially regularly in the same place). It doesn't take long to steal a bike. Sheldon Brown has his own strategy for locking here.

Oh, and a cable lock is as secure as a piece of string, even for a kid's bike, so never ever use one for anything important. Look at the statistics on Chicago stolen bike registry to see why (and for more tips).

updated 4/14